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A food court for foodies

Get hungry for 222 Market

The 222 Market opens Saturday with live music and samples. Photo credit: Christian Carvajal

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Despite being a state capital noted for artisanal spirit and cultural diversity, Olympia struggles to birth and maintain what food connoisseurs refer to as "destination dining." Indisputably great restaurants, meaning eateries capable of drawing gastronomes away from Seattle, Portland or even Tacoma, are few and far between. That's why it was significant when Jessica Yadegaran dubbed Olympia's 222 Market, which opens officially this weekend, as "worth the drive" in the October issue of Seattle magazine. It "puts the capital city on the culinary map," she added. Of Zagat's nine recent "reasons to drive to Olympia," three are 222 Market itself; Bread Peddler, the anchor restaurant in that development; and craft distillery Blind Pig Spirits within 222 Market.

Bread Peddler, a downtown staple since 2006, fills the southwest corner of the 15,000-square-foot facility. Two associated restaurants, Peddler Bistro and Peddler Creperie & General Store, have already opened for business in the 222 "food mall." The bistro offers such Gallic lunchtime favorites as croque monsieur and croque madame sandwiches, French onion soup beneath its savory cap of broiled fromage, steak frites, clams Provençale and a quiche of the day. The creperie adds a variety of sweet and savory toppings to its mouth-watering pancakes, from strawberries and cream to smoked salmon and chevre. A dish of buckwheat crepes laden with rosemary garlic chicken and duxelles (mushroom) sauce makes for a delicious, surprisingly hearty lunch, and for a reasonable $9 to boot.

Still to come are 222 Market vendors Broth Bar by Salt, Fire and Time; Chelsea Farms; Fleurae; OlyKraut; Pantry and Sofie's Scoops. Broth Bar, an offshoot of a Portland favorite, serves half a dozen types of nutritious, warming bone broth with a variety of gourmet seasonings. Seafood purveyor Chelsea Farms has turned its space into an oyster bar that features creamy Eld Inlet bonitas. Fleurae is a boutique florist in its first brick-and-mortar storefront, and it also sells gift and décor items. OlyKraut began producing gourmet pickles, sauerkrauts and sipping brines in 2008. Pantry is an artisanal grocery with a community cooking school. Sofie's Scoops is a small-batch gelateria dishing up such irresistible flavors as blood orange saffron, mascarpone sweet crem and salted butterscotch. Samples provided to Arts Walk visitors by Sofie's Scoops were delightfully promising.

All of these businesses open onto an indoor, mall-style promenade with additional public seating, just the thing for rainy-day strolls and tasting sessions. The building is owned by Gary and Joy Graham, who also own Biotics Research NW. Their partner in this culinary undertaking is Lela Cross, chef and co-owner of the recently expanded Dillinger's Cocktails, and the past chef at Capitale and Cielo Blu.

The grand opening of 222 Market is scheduled for Saturday, Nov. 19, with a ribbon-cutting ceremony at 1 p.m. Samples, live music and door prizes will be offered to visitors throughout that afternoon.

222 MARKET, Creperie hours 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday, 222 Capitol Way N., Olympia, 360.352.1175, 222Market.com

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